Yarnmaven

Roll Your Own Blocking Board

The subject of blocking came up at our South Austin Knitting Meet-up this weekend and Janet asked if I blocked on my bed or what?  No, I can't keep people and animals off my bed long enough to block on it and besides, the bed never gets made unless company is coming.  I always wanted one of those great folding blocking boards with handles, but the price has been prohibitive for me.  I did some web research a while back and dug up all I could find on making my own.  I came up with a version of one from Knitty.com and thought I would share my DIY Blocking Board info with you.

I remember coveting Donna's (Donna's Yarn Barn) blocking board in the back room of her shop years ago before she retired and closed the business.  It was a large board that was on a table about counter height, so you didn't need to bend over to use it easily.  It was padded and covered with Muslin, I can't remember if it had a grid on it or not.  It looked to be the size of my cutting table that I use for sewing (40X72 when opened), so it was a substantial size.  I knew I needed something bigger than the small folding boards I had seen at some retailers.  Some knitted items can cover a lot of real estate while blocking, especially if you block the pieces BEFORE you stitch them together.

I came across the Knitty.com article online and it has lots of good info.  I did follow their instructions to a point, but was confused about a couple of their techniques and figured out my own way around those.

First of all, they call for homosote.  Well, unless you are into DIY remodeling of your home, you may not know what that is.  Well, it's a product made of cellulose (recycled paper by-product) and it is sold in 4X8 sheets for sound proofing a wall or room which don't fit easily in a vehicle unless you have a truck or van.  It is also basically the same thing used in accoustic ceiling tiles.  The commercial ones are large - I found some that were 2x4 at Lowes and I can't recall, but I think 2 of them were less than 10 bucks.  I took them home along with a roll of Duct Tape - did you know that stuff comes in decorator colors now?

Accoustic ceiling tiles are cheaper than plywood and they don't require padding unless you just want to add it.  They are relatively lightweight, but they do have some vulnerabilities.  They can break and the edges can crumble.  I taped all around all the edges with duct tape to secure the edges  I bought a few yards of 1 inch Gingham fabric.  You can get this stuff from a number of places, and it can be cotton or a blend and many colors.  The gingham creates a 1x1 grid on your board that makes measuring your blocking and lining it up so much easier.  Just cut enough to wrap around the board and staple it to the back.  You could also use hot glue if you didn't have a staple gun, but you want to make sure you line up the grid straight and fairly taut as you secure the fabric to the back. 

That is about it.  A box of stainless steel T-pins and you are in business.  The tiles are absorbant and wick moisture away from your knitting which speeds the drying process.  When I block long scarves I just lay the boards end to end on the floor and block across the entire length.  I store my boards in the closet when not in use, but you could slide them under a bed or sofa.  If you do, put them face to face (if you make two) so they don't get dusty.  I lay them flat on a table to pin and then will lean them against a wall while they dry. They have worked really well for me and if and when they wear out, they will be easy to replace.   Just lather rinse, repeat.

As long as we are on the subject of blocking, here are some other posts I ran across on the subject I felt worthy of sharing.  I have found that blocking is important with most knit items.  I know some people don't bother and it shows.  Trust me, a serious knitter can spot an unblocked item from...well, a block away.

Eunny Blocks Everything

Blocking for Blockheads - pdf by the Knitting Curmudgeon

Make Your Own Blocking Board - with plywood

Final link and tip:  This retailer has EZ boards at a better price AND sells pre-printed cloths if you want to build and pad your own board, but it still isn't as cheap as mine.  I can't vouch for them since I have never dealt with them, but this was the first place I found the pre-printed grid cloths.

The Knitter's Guide to Toilet Replacement

The hardest part of repairing or replacing a toilet is that you often have to work in some really tight places.  Sometimes it's hard to squeeze your dominant hand around where you need to get the wrench to turn.  Sometimes it's hard to see where you need to get while your head is blocking the light.  These are the biggest hurdles and should not prevent the average person from tackling this simple task provided they have available the necessary tools and courage. 

Tools needed:

• Adjustable crescent wrench
• Channel lock wrench
• Hack saw
• Screwdriver
• putty knife

Step 1 - the purchase.

Do not fear the Big Box Store.  There are lots of choices but all toilets do basically the same thing.  Decide how much you are willing to spend based on budget and decorating choices and buy the best you can afford, you do get what you pay for to a point.  Modern toilets come in 2 pieces, the tank and the bowl, purchased separately, and they need to be matched. Why are they sold separately if they need to match and work together?  Good question, but the first time you get a set home and manage to break either piece before they are installed, you will appreciate the fact that you can buy only one piece if you need it.  They also come with all the working parts installed.  They DO NOT come with a toilet seat - that you will have to buy separately and there are two standard shapes, round and oval which should match the toilet style you chose.

You will also need to buy a new wax ring, they are small and inexpensive, yet essential.

While you are in the store, you might as well buy a new water supply line and perhaps a new shut-off valve if the old one is more than 10 or 15 years old.  These things are cheap and since you are already dropping a hundred bucks or more on a new toilet, you might as well freshen up your connections.

Note: If you purchase a water supply line with the FloodSafe feature, and the water pressure at your toilet inflow exceeds the limit of the supply line - it will prevent water from flowing into your tank.  I am sure it's a wonderful invention and may save some home from water damage, but it frustrated the hell out of me trying to figure out what I did wrong when all I did was ignorantly buy the wrong water supply line.  Buy the regular water supply line that is for toilets without any fancy features.

Note: Toilets are heavy and somewhat fragile until they are installed, use care when lifting.

Step 2 - out with the old

First turn off the water to the toilet.  There should be a valve coming out of the floor or wall behind or under the toilet tank.  Once the water supply to the toilet is cut off, flush the toilet to empty the tank and bowl.  There will still remain some water in both which can be scooped out or soaked up with towels. 
Unscrew the water supply line nearest the tank.  It may be a plastic nut, which can be loosened by hand.  If it's too tight, you can use a wrench to loosen it just enough for it to turn by hand. 
Now remove the decorative caps on the bolts at the base of the toilet that secure the bowl to the floor.  This will require a crescent or adjustable wrench. 

Once the nuts are removed you can lift the toilet straight up and set it aside. 

This is a good time to get someone else to drag it out to the garage or the backyard or wherever you want to put it till it is disposed of.

While the space is opened up is a good time to replace the Shut-off valve if you need to - but you will need to turn the water off to the house before doing so.

Step 3 - prepping for the new throne

This is a good time to clean around this area since there may be some old caulk or grit that covers the area where the toilet was - also you will need to remove all the old wax ring from around the flange that comes up from the sewer pipe. The flange is a sturdy slotted brass piece that is attached to the sewer pipe and then the toilet is bolted to it. I used a putty knife and an old towel to get it all off.  Remove the bolts that held the old toilet and discard. This is the dirtiest part.  Once this is done, you have seen the worst.
Open the box with the bowl and carefully turn it upside down on a padded surface like carpet or a big towel.  Open the wax ring packaging and following the manufacturers directions apply the wax ring to the opening on the bottom of the bowl.

Step 4 - in with the new

There will be a package of bolts and caps in the box.  You will need to insert the bolts into the flange so that the toilet bowl may be lowered onto them, so you may need to adjust where they sit.  Carefully lower the toilet down onto the bolts.  Wiggle it gently until it is seated over the flange and push down firmly to seat the wax ring.

Now you can apply the nuts and washers (if any) and the bottom half of the cap cover and tighten the bolts using a wrench until it is secure.  Be careful not to over-tighten, it is possible to crack the porcelain.  You don't want to do that.  Once the bolts are tight, you may need to cut the bolts with a hack saw in order to fit the decorative cap on.  Do not panic, this is not hard.  The bolts are brass and cut fairly easily.  Apply decorative caps - they usually just snap onto the base.

Now open the box containing the tank.  Open the package containing the bolts and washers and nuts or wingnuts.  Carefully place the toilet in place and insert bolts.  Tighten gently and alternately, again don't over-tighten these to the point of cracking the tank.

Now it's time to connect the water supply to the toilet tank.  If you bought a new water supply line, this is the time to install it. Any plastic nuts should be only hand tightened, no tools are required. 

Step 5 - Flush with confidence

Go ahead and turn the water supply line on and open it up all the way.  You may need to adjust the level of the float a bit to get the water to stop at the fill line, but basically you are now in business.  Once the tank is full, give it a couple of practice flushes.  Check for leaks around all your connections, you might need to tighten some things a bit.

If all is well, place the tank lid on and you can also caulk around the base of the toilet where it sits on the floor. 

Installing the toilet seat is pretty much a no-brainer, but if you get stuck, give me a holler.

Now, stand back and see how you feel.  Feels pretty good doesn't it?  No one is helpless unless they choose to be.  There is no reason to call a plumber for a simple toilet installation.  You call a plumber to crawl under the house because you can hear water gushing under there and there is no way you are crawling under a house in the dark with mud and bugs and ...well, you get my point.  Pay professionals to do the things you won't or can't.

Sources for additional information:
Toiletology 101